The most critical Step!

Log Restoration Ontario

Prepare your surface

Preparation is the most important part!
The most critical part to any project is the prep that goes into it. It can be tempting to take shortcuts here, but that usually results in regret. There are several different ways to prep a log home depending on the condition of the logs and if we are going over another coating or working with a raw log. Speak with one of our specialists and they will help you determine the best method for your particular project.

WARNING: Ensure Stain Compatibility with other Coatings/Chinking/Caulking

Did you know that some coatings that you use may contain non-drying oils or waxes and may prevent you from using chinking and caulking in the future? If you are not certain, ask a specialist about our compatibility testing, database of various stains and chemical ingredient review service.

CAUTION: Only use Log Products on Log Homes

We receive phone calls daily from people disappointed they bought a deck/fence /wood stain at a big box or hardware store and it failed early. Log's Ain't Wood and they behave much differently. You don't treat a 2x4 the same you way treat a log. You want a product specifically engineered to perform properly for your home. Would you rather save a hundred dollars on product? Or do the job twice as often??


Log Wizard Debarking Chainsaw Attachment

The Log Wizard turns an ordinary chain saw into a planer with a 3" cutting area. Cut notches, debark logs, or grind off knots. The Log Wizard fits most chain saws. Attaches easily to chainsaw bar after drilling 2 mounting holes. Uses standard 3" planer blades. Extra sprocket included. Chain should be 2" longer to accept the new Log Wizard end sprocket. Made in Canada

Timber Pro Strip and Brite

Timber Pro STRIP+BRITE is a specially formulated professional strength stripper designed to remove tough exterior oil-based finishes (not for acrylic or latex finishes). STRIP+BRITE helps bring your previously coated surfaces back to a new-wood appearance. STRIP+BRITE will also work to remove the heavily greyed areas and remove the dead wood fibers caused from sun damage. Stain Calculator

Timber Pro Clean + Brite

Timber Pro CLEAN+BRITE is a specially formulated professional strength cleaner designed for all exterior wood surfaces. CLEAN+BRITE will remove tannin stains, dirt, mild greying, and environmental dirt from new wood. After cleaning with CLEAN+BRITE, the wood surface is ready for finishing. CLEAN+BRITE is also an excellent cleaner to keep your exterior coatings looking like the day they were applied and is safe to use on exterior finishes in good condition. CLEAN+BRITE can also be used to clean up your exterior concrete, stone work and masonry around the house from any dirt or mould build-up. Stain Calculator

CPR Log Cleaner & Brightener


CPR® Log Cleaner and Brightener brings your logs and wood back to life. CPR cleans and brightens bare logs and wood, and restores luster and vibrancy when used for routine log home maintenance. It’s a gentle log and wood home cleaner whose oxygenated bleach formula won’t weaken wood fibers. It effectively kills mold, mildew and fungus, while also removing dirt, dust, pollen and other surface contaminants. Use CPR in conjunction with power washing or media blasting to perfectly prepare wood surfaces before staining, or apply with a pump sprayer and rinse with a hose for routine maintenance..

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Osborn® Brushes


Use these helpful tools so finish sanding won’t wear you out.

Osborn® brushes are the efficient and easy-to-use alternatives to everyday sandpaper. They make quick work of removing wood fuzz (called felting), and are gentle yet effective when used on hand-peeled logs and delicate wood fixtures that require a light touch. Osborn® brushes are also excellent for wood and log homes that must be prepped entirely by hand. Use these helpful tools so finish sanding won’t wear you out. View More Info

Buffy Pad System


Use these helpful tools so finish sanding won’t wear you out.

Sashco’s Buffy Pad system are the efficient and easy-to-use alternatives to everyday sandpaper. They make quick work of removing wood fuzz (called felting), and are gentle yet effective when used on hand-peeled logs and delicate wood fixtures that require a light touch.Use these helpful tools so finish sanding won’t wear you out.

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Very Important! Sound wood means: 

  • It is free of any stains that have failed and any loose wood fibres. 
  • Free of yellow or grey wood
  • If you stain over top of unsound wood, you should expect that it will sluff off taking the stain with it at some point. 
  • Methods of Prep
    • Crushed recycled glass blasting.  (feels like sand). Other media is still used but glass is by far the most common. 
    • Power Washing deep enough to get felting (wood fuzz)
    • Hand sanding with Osborn brush, Buffy Pad Systems, random orbital sander or sanding discs.    
    • Light Powerwash is good if your home is still in the maintenance phase and not the restoration phase. 



Take the time, it’s worth it

  • Most log stains are transparent or semi-transparent to see the beauty of the wood grain. Making sure the surface is clean before starting is important so you don’t see things you don’t want to see after staining happens and its too late. 
  • Clean means free of dust, pollen, pencil marks, bird poo mill glaze ( very important). You get the picture. A log cleaner/brightener is great for this
  • Contaminants caught under the stain can result in:
    • Peeling or flaking stain
    • Mold, Mildew and/or algae growth under the stain
    • Eye Sores- You didn’t do all this work to have it not look great 



Why?  Because: 

More texture=               More surface area 
More surface area=    More stain 
More stain=                   More Protection

  • Sanding too smooth closes the wood pores preventing stain penetration.
  • How to get more texture? Media blasting, Pressure Washing, Hand Sanding


Most stains call for a 60-80 grit finish as best to receive stain. We usually recommend starting with the least aggressive method first and only use what you need to remove the coating.  This will help avoid excess secondary prep if your initial one was too agressive. 



Often missed, but very important

  • Too high of moisture content in the logs or wood when staining can interfere with stain absorption and  result in :
    • Peeling or flaking stain
    • Mold, mildew, algae growth
    • Rot
    • Divorce ( it’s pretty frustrating) 
  • Most stains recommend 19% moisture content  and under to avoid problems. * Check the application instructions


We typically choose a dry prep method over a wet one as then we don’t require several days for it to dry out. If you are pressure washing, make sure someone stands on the inside when you start a wall as often you will see water coming through the joints if not sealed well.  



Watch the sun! 

  • Stains typically can be applied from about 4-32 degrees Celsius. This does vary by manufacture and even by product so check the application instructions.  
  • Too Hot? The upper curvature of a log can get up over 70 degrees Celsius even though the outside temperature is only 32. These temperatures will result in heat flashing the stain before it even has a chance to absorb. 
  • Too Cold? Temperatures typically need to say above the minimums for a few days after application to cure properly. Also, when the logs are cold the pores of the wood are closed and stain will not penetrate as well.  


If you do not have a laser thermometer to check the surface temperature of a log, a good rule of thumb is “Don’t work with the sun at your back”. That helps to ensure you are not staining logs under direct sunlight and too warm. 

What our clients are  Saying